Sometimes you're golden, man,
that's all I've got to say.
-John Mellencamp
I had no idea what to expect of Butte.
Never been there, hadn't heard much about it before. And, as we exited
I-94 there seemed to be no reason to expect big things. McDonald's, Taco
Bell, a Mobil station, and all the other homogenous Interstate signs
greeted us, making no claim to be in Montana, Florida, Iowa, or anywhere
else in the world, for that matter.
It didn't take much more driving,
however, to realize that Butte was unlike any town we'd been in before.
An old mining town, Butte was built into a mountainside, giving its main
street a decidedly uphill slope, and its metal-monikered side roads a
strange sideways tilt. Despite Montana's sometimes-harsh climate, nary a
spot of rust blemished the vehicles of the streets of Butte, comprised
mostly of 50's-model pickup trucks in pristine condition. No actual
mining has gone on here for years, yet the modest homes were well-kept,
and the streets were remarkably free of litter. Clearly, here was a town
that had some pride in itself.
Due to the relatively short drive from
Billings (coupled with the lack of a state speed limit), we arrived in
Butte about three hours before game time. After checking into the 6, we
headed up Main and into downtown. The idea was to check out the town,
have a beer or two, and then head to the game. We happened upon the
requisite storefront tavern and went on in. A good enough place for a
beer, but nothing special. Should we have one more here before heading
to the ballpark, or see what else Butte had to offer? We opted for new
frontiers.
A couple of blocks down we found a
place on the corner with an Irish name. McCuddy's, Murphy's, O'Leary's
-- we've been unable to remember, for soon-to-be-apparent reasons. We
walked into McMurpholeary's and were immediately impressed by the giant
antique bar. Choosing two stools at the end, we then noticed the vast
array of taps behind the bar. After taking our drink orders (I think we
ordered some local microbrewery's brown ale), Jim the bartender asked us
where we were from. Apparently, strangers stand out in Butte. When we
told him Chicago, he wondered what could possibly bring us to Butte on a
Tuesday night. We explained to him about our baseball travels and he was
duly impressed.
One of the things I clearly remember
Jim saying was, "I wish I could do something like that." We'd
heard that sentiment before, and it's always puzzled me. Ron and I are
far from millionaires, nor do we command an inordinate amount of
vacation time. We've simply decided to use one week of each year in
pursuit of this particular passion. Anybody with an adventurous spirit
and a Rand McNally could do it. Still, people we tell of our travels
often treat us like super heroes. Anyway, I digress.
We bought three pints at
O'Murphicuddy's (more than we'd expected, but Jim turned out to be a
great conversationalist), and figured we'd better get to the game. Jim
wished us a good time, and promised to buy us a beer if we came back
after the game.
The Copper Kings share a stadium with
the Montana State University football team. It's functional, but not
pretty. A goalpost looms over the right-field wall, a constant reminder
that this is not exactly Fenway Park. As part of a college campus,
however, it did have a certain charm. Built into the hillside like
everything else in Butte, a pedestrian walkway winds around the
structure. The game hadn't started yet, so we decided to take a walk
around the park. And, hey, we'd dragged this cooler of beer all the way
from Oak Park; now seemed like as good a time as any to crack it open.
Brews in hand, we circled the stadium and watched the lightning flash in
the distance. If we hadn't known by then, it was clear that this was
about to become one wild night.
Let's review: one beer at the
storefront tavern, three at McMurphy's, and one as we lapped the park.
Yep, we were feeling pretty good by the time we walked through the gate.
So why spoil it? We made a stop at the beer stand before even finding
our seats.
The crowd was sparse due to the
weather, a couple hundred fans at most. So when the PA announcer read
that night's trivia question in the third inning, I knew I had a chance
to win. "In the movie Field
of Dreams, which character never got a Major League
at-bat?" The answer, of course, was Archibald "Moonlight"
Graham. (Although most of the characters in that movie never got a Major
League at-bat, Moonlight, played by Burt Lancaster, appeared in one Big
League game without getting to the plate.) I walked down to the customer
relations booth, actually a small trailer behind the grandstand, and
asked if I could enter the contest. The young lady told me that the
entry form was located in the game program. I happily paid the dollar,
borrowed a pen, and deposited my guess in the big wooden box. An inning
later, it was lucky number time. I opened my program to page 24, and
sure enough, I was the lucky winner of a certificate worth 25% off a
purchase of $250 or more at a local Butte furniture store! And three
innings after that, the winner of the trivia contest was announced:
"Scott McLean of Arlington Heights has won 10 free movie rentals,
courtesy of Butte Video!" A double bounty! Never mind that I had no
use for either of these prizes. The young family sitting behind us was
thrilled when I passed the video coupon up to them. As for the furniture
discount, well, we'll get back to that.
The game? I honestly can't say that I
remember much of what happened on the field. Mother Nature was putting
on a spectacular light show of her own, and our own state of inebriation
helped to make it even more so. The inevitable rainstorm stopped the
game in the seventh, but we were more than happy to head back to
McMurphicuddy's to take Jim up on his offer.
Jim seemed genuinely pleased to see us
back, and happily made good on his promise. I told him about winning the
furniture store discount, asked if he knew anybody that could use it.
Well, wouldn't you know it, Jim had just moved into a new apartment and
was about to go out and buy new furniture! He was so appreciative that
he bought us the next two or five rounds.
But wait, it's not over yet. The
couple sitting next to us at the bar had overheard us talking to Jim
about our travels and asked us where we were from. When we said Chicago,
they asked what part. Arlington Heights, said I, and Oak Park, said Ron.
Believe it or not, they were from Oak Park too! We talked about the
Chicago-area and Oak Park, and what all of us were doing in Butte, and
they insisted on buying us a beer. As if we needed it! We tried to
reciprocate, but they declined and called it a night. Ron and I decided
to do the same, but Jim, apparently still excited about the prospect of
saving money on his new furniture, wouldn't hear of it. He set down
another two beers in front of us, on the House, of course.
Not surprisingly, the next morning was
brutal, and the drive down to Ogden, Utah was not very much fun. But it
was worth it. Butte turned out to be one of those unexpected gems that
we'll never forget.